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Grapeskin,Brass Monkey

Editorial Review

Editorial Review

Tucked in nicely beside the iconic Brass Monkey Hotel on the corner of James and William Streets in Northbridge, Grapeskin has grown from “that little place next to Universal” to “that cool spot for food and wine”. After being awarded various accolades for its wine list, it seems the kitchen team has risen to the occasion by giving the food a well-deserved dose of love and passion. If you haven't visited Grapeskin for a meal lately, perhaps it's time to give it another shot. The menu is still short and sweet, yet the quality of produce and menu style seems to have received an almighty boost.

As I've always preached, quality not quantity is the way to impress your diners when it comes to food, and with dishes like the tapas plate, the chefs sure have listened to this important piece of advice. Starring the usual tapas heroes like marinated olives, semi-dried tomatoes, grilled chorizo and balsamic with extra virgin olive oil, you may not look twice at this dish on paper but couple it with a spicy bottle of South Australian Shiraz and you're off to a great start. Once you've whet your appetite and are ready to sink your teeth into something more substantial, there are a few standout dishes on the mains menu guaranteed to tickle your tastebuds. For those after a little game, the “selection of roo” boasts kangaroo done three ways, while the beef-cheeks on peppered mash is a fabulous match for a rich red. There are also a handful of gourmet pizzas with tasty toppings and pasta or fish of the day. If you're not overly hungry, don't panic - a bottle of wine and the fromage plate is still sufficient to get a skinful of one of Northbridge's little culinary gems.

Karen Bilsby, September 2008